| Summary: | Bioactive peptides are gaining more and more popularity in the research and development of cosmetic products with anti-aging effect. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a hydrophilic peptide incorporated in cosmetics to reduce the under-eye wrinkles and the forehead furrows. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) is the separation technique of choice for analyzing peptides. In this work, a rapid HILIC method coupled to photodiode array detection operated at 214 nm was developed, validated and used to determine acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics. Chromatography was performed on a Xbridge<sup>®</sup> HILIC BEH analytical column using as mobile phase a 40 mM ammonium formate water solution (pH 6.5)-acetonitrile mixture 30:70, <i>v/v</i> at flow rate 0.25 mL min<sup>−1</sup>. The assay was linear over the concentration range 20 to 30 μg mL<sup>−1</sup> for the cosmetic formulations and 0.004 to 0.007% (<i>w/w</i>) for the cosmetic cream. The limits of quantitation for acetyl hexapeptide-8 were 1.5 μg mL<sup>−1</sup> and 0.002% (<i>w/w</i>) for the assay of cosmetic formulations and cosmetic creams, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of cosmetic formulations and anti-wrinkle cosmetic creams.
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