| Summary: | The goal of this contribution is to recover six significant experiences of the 1980s that in different ways have been able to set central questions on the cultural status of fashion in its comparison with the exhibition machine and the museum. 1922-1943: Twenty years of Italian fashion curated by Grazietta Butazzi in Milan in 1980; Intimate architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design curated by Susan Sidlauskas at the Hayden Gallery of the Massachusetts Instituite of Technology in 1982; Conseguenze Impreviste: Moda curated by Rossana Bossaglia in Prato in 1982; Yves Saint Laurent curated by Diana Vreeland in New York in 1983; Il genio antipatico: Creatività e tecnologia della moda italiana 1951-1983 curated by Pia Soli in Rome in 1984; Gianni Versace: L’abito per pensare curated by Nicoletta Bocca and Chiara Buss in Milan in 1989. Through the analysis of these exhibitions, the paper tries to recover the 1980s as a fundamental decade, not only for the development of fashion exhibitions as designed objects, but also for the definition of fashion itself; this, especially by focusing on themes such as the reconstruction of its history; conservation of objects; authorship; the disciplinary status of fashion in comparison with design, architecture and art; fashion carried out as a project made of precise constituent elements; cultural and museum display practices in their comparison with commercial display.
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