Eksplorasi Pewarnaan Teknik Smock Kombinasi Tritik Jumputan untuk Produk Fashion

• Main Authors: Suryawati Ristiani, Irianti Nugrahani
• Format: Article
• Language: Indonesian
• Published: Center For Handicraft And Batik, Ministry of Industry Republic of Indonesia 2016-04-01
• Series: Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik: Majalah Ilmiah
• Subjects: Teknik jumputan; teknik Smock; kain tritik jumputan; fashion
• Online Access: http://ejournal.kemenperin.go.id/dkb/article/view/1071

<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><strong>ABSTRAK</strong><br /><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">Kain tritik jumputan merupakan salah satu jenis kerajinan tekstil dari Jawa. Jumlah industri pembuat <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">kain tritik jumputan semakin berkurang, sehingga perlu dilakukan pengembangan motif pada tritik <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">jumputan agar lebih menarik. <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>Smock </em><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">adalah salah satu teknik keterampilan menjahit dan menyulam <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">tangan, yaitu teknik tusukan menjahit untuk membuat kerutan-kerutan yang menghasilkan motif <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">menarik sesuai pola tertentu. Tujuan kegiatan ini adalah melakukan pengembangan teknik <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>smock</em> <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">sebagai teknik dalam pewarnaan yang dikombinasikan dengan teknik tritik jumputan sehingga dapat <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">meningkatkan daya saing produk fashion tritik jumputan. Metode dalam kegiatan ini adalah <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">melakukan survey langsung ke industri tritik jumputan serta eksplorasi literatur. Data-data yang <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">diperoleh kemudian dianalisa dari segi proses maupun desain motifnya. Tahap berikutnya dilakukan <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">ujicoba pewarnaan dengan mengkombinasikan dua teknik yaitu teknik <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>smock </em><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">dan teknik tritik <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">jumputan. Ujicoba yang dilakukan tercipta desain motif baru yang indah. Hasil kegiatan diperoleh 23 <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">desain motif baru. Pengamatan visual menunjukkan hasil pewarnaan yang paling optimal adalah pada <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">kain mori Primissima. Berdasarkan hasil uji labolatorium, tekstil kerajinan ini mempunyai ketahanan <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">luntur warna terhadap pencucian, keringat, dan sinar yang bagus, dengan nilai hasil uji 4 – 5. <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">Sedangkan nilai ketahanan luntur warna terhadap gosokan, adalah 3. Dapat dikatakan hasil pewarnaan <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">dengan mengkombinasikan dua teknik ini memenuhi standar kualitas sebagai produk bahan sandang. <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">Ujicoba pasar yang dilakukan menunjukkan bahwa ternyata respon masyarakat sangat bagus. Hasil uji <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">kesukaan responden mendapatkan nilai sangat bagus sebanyak 55%, dan bagus sebanyak 45%. Teknik <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">pewarnaan <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>smock </em><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">kombinasi tritik jumputan ini prosesnya sederhana, tidak memerlukan alat khusus, <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">sehingga berpotensi untuk dikembangkan menjadi sumber daya ekonomi yang signifikan.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"> <span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><strong>Kata kunci</strong><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">: </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em><br /></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><strong><em>ABSTRACT</em></strong><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>Tritik jumputan is one kind of craft textile from Java. The number of craftsmen in this </em><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>industrial craft is diminishing from time to time. Therefore it is necessary to execute</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>improvement on its motive so that it will be more attractive. Smock is one technique in handsewing and embroidery. It is a needling technique to create wrinkles stitches that produce</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>attractive motive in accordance with certain pattern. The objective of this research is to carry</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>out an expansion on smock technique as a technique in coloring method that is combined</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>with tritik jumputan technique so that it can enhance its commercial value as a fashion</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>product. The method of this research is by direct surveys on the industry and also by literary</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>exploration. Then, the data are analyzed from the process and motive design point of view.</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>The next stage is executing an experiment in coloring process by combining two techniques</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>namely smock technique and tritik jumputan technique. From the result of the experiment, it</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>creates new beautiful motive design. From this research it creates 23 new motive designs. </em><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>Visual observation shows that the most optimal result of coloring process is on primissima <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>cloth. Based on the laboratory test, this textile craft has resistance of color fastness toward</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>washing, perspiration and fine light with the test result 4-5. While, the grade of color fastness</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>toward ribbing is 3. Thus, it can be said that the result of coloring process that combines</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>these two techniques accomplish quality standard as clothing material product. The market</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>trial shows that the people respond toward this product is apparently excellent. The result of</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>the respondent keen test derives very good grade 55% and good grade 45%. The process of</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>smock coloring technique combined with tritik jumputan is simple and does not need specific</em> <span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>tools so that it is potential to develop becoming significant economical source.</em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em></em><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><strong><em>Key words: </em></strong><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><em>jumputan technique, smock technique, kain tritik jumputan, fashion</em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" /></span></span></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" /></span></em></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; 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