Modelling wave–current interactions off the east coast of Scotland
Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea defences leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where the coastal margin is lying low and population density is high, oceanographic model...
| Main Authors: | , , , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Copernicus Publications
2016-07-01
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| Series: | Ocean Science |
| Online Access: | http://www.ocean-sci.net/12/875/2016/os-12-875-2016.pdf |
| Summary: | Densely populated coastal areas of the North Sea are particularly
vulnerable to severe wave conditions, which overtop or damage sea defences
leading to dangerous flooding. Around the shallow southern North Sea, where
the coastal margin is lying low and population density is high, oceanographic
modelling has helped to develop forecasting systems to predict flood risk.
However, coastal areas of the deeper northern North Sea are also subject to
regular storm damage, but there has been little or no effort to develop
coastal wave models for these waters. Here, we present a high spatial
resolution model of northeast Scottish coastal waters, simulating waves and
the effect of tidal currents on wave propagation, driven by global ocean
tides, far-field wave conditions, and local air pressure and wind stress. We
show that the wave–current interactions and wave–wave interactions are
particularly important for simulating the wave conditions close to the coast
at various locations. The model can simulate the extreme conditions
experienced when high (spring) tides are combined with sea-level surges and
large Atlantic swell. Such a combination of extremes represents a high risk
for damaging conditions along the Scottish coast. |
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| ISSN: | 1812-0784 1812-0792 |