| Summary: | 碩士 === 樹德科技大學 === 應用設計研究所 === 91 === Step into the 21 century, we human beings emphasize on the issues of environment, living surroundings, and health more and more. The damage to the earth done by human beings has arrived the limit what the earth can bear. Therefore, the whole environment, weather, and living surroundings are changed gradually. Moreover, these changes are going to threaten our life seriously. Since “synthetic dyeing” was invented in 1856, “technology” has been applied to our life a lot and threatened the environment badly. Look back to our ancestors’ wisdom, we can find that “plant dyeing” could give less burden to the earth. Based on the idea of “environment protection, beauty, and art,” we can reuse the abandoned plants to avoid damaging the earth and to create a healthier living environment.
This paper discusses how to dye with natural mordants instead of chemical mordants. It studies how to dye with plant, mineral, or animal as colors, mordants, or dyeing assistants. So far even the plant dyeing also used chemical mordants. Some chemical mordants will cause environmental pollutions; we should pay more attention to their side effects on human bodies. Some mordants consists of heavy metal ions which will also pollute our surroundings. This study tries to find out better mordants through traditional dyeing technique.
This study has dyed 105 pieces of fabric in total. Broussonetia papyrifera（L.）L’Herit, coffee and Camellia sinensis（L.）ktzel tea as dye-stuff, and ashes , mineral clay, clam shells as mordants; then analyzes the possibility of using natural mordants through dyeing by scientific instruments. The color and the colorfastness to both washing and sunning made by natural mordants are as good as or even better than those made by chemical ones. Tested by ICP-MS, the ashes often contain different metal ions such K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Al3+,Rb+ iron, etc. These ions are necessary to color dyeing. In the experiments of Broussonetia papyrifera（L.）L’Herit, coffee and Camellia sinensis（L.）ktzel tea, we can find by using Ficus religiosa （L.） ashes as mordant that express the best three colorfastness results. The colors dyed through natural mordants are so natural and unique that can hardly made by chemical mordants.
However, the stability of plant dyeing is not good enough that it is difficult for manufacturers to meet every customer’s request. The color of natural dye-stuff usually changed because of its gathering timing or place. This could be solved by condensing the stuff into powder to change the process of traditional plant dyeing. And analyzed by HITACHI U-200, we can know the wave length of its ultraviolet rays to understand the strength of absorption. The absorptivity of Broussonetia papyrifera（L.）L’Heritε＝1300cm2 g-1 ,and that of Camellia sinensis（L.）ktzel tea ε＝700 cm2 g-1, .Therefore, we can know that the absorptivity of Broussonetia papyrifera（L.）L’Herit is larger than that of Camellia sinensis（L.）ktzel tea.
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