| Summary: | 碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 92 === Diagonal ripples and wrinkles at crotch level often appear on pants wearing by women with larger hip girth or lower bodice. Since Taiwan garment technology largely adopts the Bunka basic block developed by BUNKA WOMEN’S University of Japan, this study aims to probe into the practicability of Bunka Basic Block applied on Taiwanese women with larger lower bodice through empirical study, and suggest a design that improves the diagonal ripples and wrinkles at crotch level.
The purposes of this study are to analyze the ratio of fork width at crotch level to lower bodice on Bunka Basic Block, and to discuss the relationship between the fork width ratio to pants and the fork widths at crotch level by means of dressing experiment involved with women with larger lower bodice.
This study first discusses the composition principle of Bunka Basic Block and its history in Taiwan based on the definition and perspective of anthropometry; second, analyzes the survey results and the relationship between the lower bodice and the diagonal ripples; third, measures the sizes of women with larger lower bodice and produces Bunka basic block, then analyzes the pants appearance and fork width before and after the mend; lastly, summarizes the research results and proposes suggestions to future direction.
The research results show that the ratio of fork width to lower bodice is 0.594, and has no direct relationship with the profile. The correlation between the lower bodice and fork width at crotch level, as well as the fork width of the pants block, were analyzed to provide as a reference to garment block development.
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