Investigating Basic Bodice Block Construction Using Anthropometric Body Measurements－A Case Study Based upon Hsiu-Chen Basic Bodice Block－

• Main Authors: HSUEH, HSIU-CHEN, 薛秀珍
• Other Authors: Associate Professor Hsiao, Mei-Ling
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2004
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/68851399255978097494

碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 92 === Most fashion patterns are designed in accordance with basic mother patterns for fashion that vary with sexual distinction and age are classified into those for ladies, men, and children. As design of ladies’ fashion is very changeful, applications of basic mother patterns for ladies relatively increase. For this reason, the focus of this research is placed on mother patterns for ladies. A fact indicates that shape of build of modern Taiwanese is quite different from that in any of past times. Since a basic mother pattern, whose design should be subject to shape of build, is controlled by four changing parts: the neckline, the arm hold, the bust line, and the shoulder line, it is necessary for us to review if our present dressing is proper and comfortable. For assuring the structure of a mother pattern most applicable to ladies, the researcher, following the changes in Japanese New Bunka Basic Block (文化式) , dressmaking II type(ドレメ) mother patterns and Hsiu-Chen type-mother pattern developed by the researcher, has completed a fashion pattern in accordance with shape of build of a model. Besides, the researcher made a piece of sample dress with bleached grey fabric and took pictures of it on a dummy with a digital camera. After the completion of objective comparison, analysis and modification made in accordance with the pictures, an ideal mother pattern was obtained, which insured the effect of fit and properness. In consideration of local women who need their dress keeping fit no matter when they are at the static state or the dynamic state, a set of standard measuring system for the sizes of shape of build was established. Incorporated in this standard measuring system is the pitch and marrow of ergonomics. It is certain that a basic mother pattern that is completed in accordance with the sizes obtained in this standard measurement and the characteristics of the foregoing three mother patterns should be obtained and satisfies a wearer with dress that ensures fit and comfort no matter when the wearer stays at the static or the dynamic state. Simply speaking, if we cannot make the “Man-clothes-environment” system attain integration and accordance, we cannot say that we are dressed fitly, beautifully and wholesomely. The main purpose of this research is to provide ready-made garment manufacturers with different suitable mother patterns that are obtained through careful comparison of classified shapes of build of modern models with three mother patterns created in different times (Japanese New Bunka type, dressmakingII type(ドレメ) mother patterns and Hsiu-Chen type-mother pattern) and repetitive analyses and modifications of the result of the comparison.