| Summary: | 碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 94 === Clothing could be created as a cultural language system formed from the material, psychological, and social structure in human daily life. Using a clothing language to be the narrative rhetoric in her works is a special feature of Eileen Chang’s novels. The connotation of a word or an expression in a fiction would be determined by inner and outer ways: the arrangement of the plot could involve in or connect with it from written area, and the interpretation along with traditional scope would influence on it from cultural space. In the process of writing, an author should deal with these two problems in common. “Jinsuo ji” and Yuan- nü are the two works that Eileen Chang had dealt with the same material story and clothing language to confront with the readers coming from different literary and cultural traditions in her two writing periods——“The Legend Period” in occupied Shanghai and “The Rewriting Period for the Rouge of the North” in America. Taking written clothing as a studying subject, this thesis attempted to explore the following questions: What writing strategies on clothing in “Jinsuo ji” and Yuan- nü had Eileen Chang used to gain her readers? What were the meanings of the chosen strategies for different societies? And what were the gain and the loss?
Starting from the explanation of the process of writing and reading a work, the studying framework was induced by combining the writing theory of Roland Barthes and the interpreting theory of fiction study. Based on the background of literature review, the research was proceeded by the method of textual analysis and contextual analysis under the perspective of author function in social discourse borrowing from Michel Foucault. Through analyzing the techniques and the narrative effects of written clothing and interpreting the esthetic structure and the point of view of the narration in written area, and after exploring the author’s cognition in clothing language function, Eileen Chang’s writing intention to the society and the historical and cultural circumstance from writing context, I had the conclusions as following. The written clothing in “Jinsuo ji” and Yuan- nü reflected the cultural context of clothing in Shanghai during the first half of twenty century, and it pointed the time, assigned the circumstance and depicted the characters’ images and states of minds. The author’s concern and position were concealed in the clothing writing through dealing with the technique and esthetic structure. For the readers being in different traditions, the written clothing in “Jinsuo ji” presented an interactive notation as an expressing role, and that in Yuan- nü demanded coming to comprehend the described object. As to the gain and the loss, Eileen Chang had left her literatures having value in notable creativity and cultural concern and she also remained the task to achieve cultural communication and interaction in Chinese-English translation which was fail in her literary pursuing process from “Jinsuo ji” to Yuan- nü.
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