| Summary: | 碩士 === 國立臺灣海洋大學 === 食品科學系 === 95 === The objectives of the study are to explore the efficacy of an anti-aging and whitening cosmetics that containing hot water extracts of yu rong san fu fang (YRSFF) and three Chinese herbal remedies (Angelicae dahuricae radix, Angelicae pubescentis radix, and Schizonepetae herba).
The study includes two parts. The first part is to evaluate the efficacy of anti-aging and whitening of the extracts of Chinese herbal remedies in vitro with chemical tests and cell line tests. Chemical tests include assaying antioxidant active ingredients content and observing the antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Cell line tests determine cells viability of the cultured fibroblast and melanin inhibition of the cultured melanocyte. The second part is to prepare and characterize the w/o/w emulsion products containing different extracts of Chinese herbal remedies. The characteristics of w/o/w emulsion products studied including storage stability, water holding capacity, skin elasticity, skin whitening, skin roughness and safety test. The results obtained are:
Results of chemical tests on the efficacy of anti-aging and whitening showed that Schizonepetae herba had highest total polyphenol, total flavonoid and trolox equivalent activity among the four extracts of Chinese herbal remedies. Scavenging effects of 5 mg/mL Schizonepetae herba and L-ascorbic acid on DPPH radical showed no significantly different (p < 0.05). This four extracts of Chinese herbal remedies showed more than 50% scavenging effects on superoxide anion (5 mg/mL). Reducing power and scavenging effect on nitric oxide production of those extracts are in the order of Schizonepetae herba, YRSFF, Angelicae pubescentis radix, and Angelicae dahuricae radix. Schizonepetae herba and YRSFF showed better chelating effects on ferrous ions than the other two extracts of Chinese herbal remedies. Angelicae dahuricae radix had the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity than the other three extracts. It showed 73.69％ tyrosinase inhibitory activity at 10 mg/mL. Antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity rose with increasing the concentration of the extracts of Chinese herbal remedies. Cell line test showed that the four extracts of Chinese herbal remedies promoted the cell viability on CCD-966SK. With the concentration of the four extracts of Chinese herbal remedies increasing, the cell viability of A375 dropped off. Besides, the four extracts of Chinese herbal remedies all revealed inhibition on melanin formation.
The stabilities of cosmetic product containing with or without Chinese herbal remedies extracts were stable for centrifuging (3000 rpm, 30 min), and for more than two months at high temperature (50□C), room temperature (25℃), low temperature (4℃) and temperature swing (4℃-25℃-50℃) storage. These results showed that w/o/w emulsion product had good stability. The safety test resulted in no erythema based on the Daize score test. Water holding capacity in terms of electrical capacitance increase ratio were not higher for those containing Chinese herbal remedies extracts than that of the control. Skin elasticity (R2) for those whom have applied the w/o/w emulsion containing Chinese herbal remedies extracts increased over time during four weeks test period. Skin whitening effect increased over time during four weeks test period but did not show a significant difference for melanin index. Skin roughness also decreased over time during four weeks test period.
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