| Summary: | 碩士 === 嘉南藥理科技大學 === 化妝品科技研究所 === 99 === Nowadays, personal appearance and image are important during the social contact. People can enhance or improve their own appearance using simple skin beauty. In addition, the use of makeup products should be recommended in order to have a much better rubicundity and to look high-spirited. A great number of color cosmetics such as lipsticks, foundations, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyeliners were commercially available. Among these makeup products, foundations are the most primary. The main function of foundation creams is in its ability to hide skin flaws, leave the skin surface appear smoother, and modify skin color in face. It is well known that wherever a foundation is useful for complexions and skin smooth or not is determined by their qualities. However, there is a little publication on the influence of varying makeup bases on physicochemical properties. This had led to the development of elegant foundations.
The purpose of the study was to evaluate the influence of various kinds of makeup bases such as thickener, colorants, titanium oxide and sunscreen agents on the storage stability and the sunburn protection of foundation products. In order to formulate a emulsion base, we selected sorbitan olivate with w/o type (Olivem 900) as a emulsifier and seven ingredients, MgSO4、NaCl、Silica、Bentonite、HEC、Xanthan Gum、and Veegum as thickeners. And then three chemical UV filters, OMC (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate), Octocrylene（OCT） and P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) were selected because they were the most widely used UV filters which were approved. In the first study, we search for an optimum w/o emulsion. In the second experiment, we performed studies using the incorporation of colorants and/or various kinds of TiO2 and/or UV filters at varying level into the W/O emulsion. Their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, and physical changes were evaluated and the sunburn protection was tested by Labsphere‘s UV-1000s transmittance analyzer (according to Food and Drug administration method). Moreover, the stability in color was measured using CIE-L, a, b system and determined as the difference between the colors observed in the foundations before and after accelerated test.
In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that the incorporation of colorant or PROPA TiO2/DM (powder form) into the w/o emulsion can result in the increasing instability of the dispersion system. When the powder TiO2 was replaced with sunclear T40 (oily form), foundations with an aesthetic appearance were obtained and there are acceptable physicochemical properties. We have demonstrated that all the obtained products had pseudoplastic behavior which produces a coherent protective film covering the skin surface with evenly distributed functional ingredients. In the presence of sunclear T40 (oily form) foundations with or without UV filters exhibited a reasonable stability, but P1789 can easily cause the sedimentation of a colored precipitant in the dispersed system. Their storage stability was up to 28 days after accelerated test. Regarding to the stability in color, the results showed that total color change (ΔE) of all the foundations is below 1.41. Obviously, the color change is invisible.
On the other hand, the sun protection factor (SPF) of all the foundations was measured. These results indicate that the SPF values were well correlating with the amounts of colorants, titanium oxide, and the used UV filters. The SPF value of the foundations increase with increasing level of colorants or TiO2. Incorporating single colorants and incorporation single TiO2 provide correlation coefficient of r=0.9999 and r=0.9724, respectively. But a combination of colorants with TiO2 had a lower correlation coefficient of r=0.9546. And then the incorporation of UV filters into the foundations contributed much higher SPF value. However, in order to avoid the foundations unstable and to cause skin irritant, total amount of the used UV filter should be limited to 4% in foundations. At the same time, it is noticed that oily TiO2 need to be used instead of powder TiO2 in order to ascertain the optimization of the foundations.
Based on these findings, a desired foundation was obtained. With high SPF of 94.61, good stability at 45℃ testing for 28 days, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of Olivem 900 4%, Stearic acid 1.5%, Mineral oil 3%, DM 5 2.5%, Finsolv TN 3%, Cyclopentasiloxane 10%, UNIPHEN P-23 0.3%, W 712 7%, Sunclear T40 15%, Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate 2%, Octocrylene 2%, 1,3-Butylene Glycol 2.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Bentonite 1.0%, Xanthan Gum 1.0%, D.W. 43.9%。
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