| Summary: | 碩士 === 大葉大學 === 生物產業科技學系碩士在職專班 === 99 === Polysaccharopeptides (PSP), isolated from the mushroom Coriolus versicolor (syn. Trametes versicolor), has known effects for immunestimulatory, anti-tumor and analgesic. PSP has been used in both health food and pharmaceuticals, however, it has not been studied for using in cosmetics yet.
This study aimed to evaluate the effects on whitening and moisture retention. The results showed good ability ( IC50, 133.90 μg/mL) on inhibitory activity of mushroom tyrosinase (in vitro). The determination of hydration showed good ability on water retention capacity and moisture absorption.
Another study was PSP W/O (water in oil) nano-emulsion formation by collision-high pressure homogenization. The effects of 5 mg/mL PSP solution (35-45 %, w/w), surfactant (4-8 %, w/w) and the homogenization pressure (100-160 Mpa) on the particle size of emulsion were investigated using response surface methodology (RSM) with three-factor-three-level Box-Behnken design. Base on the canonical analysis, the effect of the number of passes of homogenization on particle size to RSM analysis results showed that an optimization conditions of making nano-emulsion as the condition of mixing water 39.03 % with emulsifier 6.54 % and then homogenized at 178.11 Mpa. The actual minimum particle size 82 nm was closed to the predicted value 64 nm. Effect of homogenization pressure was the most important factor for particle size from the analysis of variance for joint test ( p < 0.05). Moreover, the number of passes of homogenization could also affect the particle size. The result after 5 passes of homogenization was about 22 nm.
This study showed that using of collision high pressure homogenization, cosmetics can be made of nano size molecular smaller than skin pores to effectively increase skin permeability and transfer rate that greatly enhance utilization of the material. PSP have good moisture retention and water-absorbing ability with good whitening function. It is also affordable and easily to get by using the method of submerged fermentation culture of Coriolus versicolor, this gives PSP great potential in developing cosmetic materials in modern biotechnology and applications.
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