| Summary: | 碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 99 === The purpose of this research is to explore the relationship between the
sleeves and the structure of a woman’s tailored jacket. By observing the
difference between the static posture and the dynamical posture of the human
body, it is possible to develop the basic pattern and thus create a tailored jacket of both perfect beauty and comfort.
The methodology used in undertaking this study is based on theoretical
principles and practices employed by the Japanese, German, English, and French
pattern-makers. It attempts to capitalize on the advantages of each of these four
approaches in pursuit of a superior approach to pattern-making for a woman’s
jacket. Accordingly, muslin samples were produced and fitted onto mannequins
in order to observe the relationship between both beauty and functional efficiency.Based on statistical evidence, we were able to analyze how beauty of appearance and functional efficiency are formed and correlate.
The results of this study revealed that the beauty and comfort of a woman’s
jacket is related to neck line structure, shoulder structure, armhole structure,sleeve cap structure, cap height and biceps line, and sleeve body structure.Obtainment of a perfect neckline structure is closely related to the back neck line circular area and the scapula’s concave-convex. Smooth shoulder line is closely related to shoulder state and armhole structure. Comfortable artistic armhole is closely related to proportional pattern distribution of bust and differential of armhole height in front and back. Sleeve cap structure is closely related to the shape of brachium bone and deltoid; cap height and biceps line intersecting at a 45° angle. The appearance of the sleeve, in addition to the above five aspects, also depends on arm trend and elbow movement. Therefore, every structure mentioned above has considerable influence on the beauty and comfort of a woman’s jacket.
In conclusion, and in response to our research problem, results obtained
enable us to explain the special advantages of constructing a woman’s jacket
based on the methodology extracted from the four ways of pattern-making
popular in different countries. Moreover, the practical approach pursued in this
research has provided us with new insights into its possibilities and limitations, enabling us to indicate possible directions and methods for further research.
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