The development of sunscreens with W/O system.

• Main Authors: Pei Chen, Leng, 冷佩真
• Other Authors: 張妙玲
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2014
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/63468230583679672441

碩士 === 嘉南藥理大學 === 化粧品應用與管理系 === 102 === Ozone layer depletion has resulted in the increasing amount of UV sunlight that reaches the earth’s surface. This makes human skin bing in the risk of several harmful changes such as wrinkling, premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation macules and even skin cancer. People should avoid overexposure to sunlight during the daytime and/or wear sunscreens to protect their skin from UV damage. Many sunscreen products including w/o type and o/w type are available in commercial markets. Sunscreens with w/o type are more popular than o/w type due to its waterproof and lasting efficacy. However, poor storage stability and greasy feel are unexpected problems. The aim of this study was to develop an elegant w/o sunscreen. In order to formulate sunscreen products, four surfactants, CP5(Glyceryl Oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables), PGPH(Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate PGPH), EM 90(Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone), LE(PEG - 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) were selected as emulsifiers. Morever, four chemicals, PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate), P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) and DBBH(Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate ), and TiO2 (Titanium oxide) were used as UV filters. In the beginning we formulated three kinds of emulsions as a control. And then we performed studies mixing different combinations of the UV filters with the four kinds of w/o emulsions containing various kinds of emulsifiers and investigated their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, storage stability, and the efficacy during typical accelerated test. The results indicated that using LE and PGPH as emulsifiers provide better storage stability than other two emulsifiers. Especially, the obtained sunscreen emulsions including LE have the expected character of both low viscosity and better stability. In efficacy variance, incorporating a combination of PMCX with DBBH into sunscreen products obtained a better photostability and thermostability than a combination of PMCX with P1789. In addition, when P1789 was incorporated into each tested emulsifier, we found that the obtained products appeared sedimentation with crystal. Finally, adding TiO2 lower viscosity of sunscreen products and impact on the storage stability. Among the four emulsifiers, only CP5 and PGPH have synergic effect in SPF when TiO2 present in products. Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product (F25) was obtained. With high SPF of 21.23, good stability at 45℃testing for 60 days, good photostability, esthetic appearance, and good skin feel, it is composed of LE 3.00%、MYRITOL 318 4.00%、CETIOL CC 4.00%、T405 4.00%、OMC 5.00%、DHHB 1.00%、D.W 75.50%、GLYCERIN 2.00%、MgSO4•7H2O 1.00%、K300 0.50%。