| Summary: | 博士 === 國立雲林科技大學 === 設計學研究所 === 103 === The Ph.D. dissertation adopts of Atayal people’s textile as the sample of the research. Through the description of stripe patterns and the comparison of colors, the stripe shape of analyzing the textile and hue range, as well as the description of the sample numbers, the dissertation examines the relationship and the distribution of the shape of composite stripes. As the dissertation discovers, the stripe pattern can induce 12 kinds of stripe patterns, such as rhombus pattern, stripe pattern, mountain shaped stripe, cross shaped pattern, zigzag shaped stripe, crisscross shaped stripe, and circle shaped stripe—which suggest the most common stripe shape. Among the shape patterns, the rhombus pattern, mountain shaped stripe and the cross shaped pattern indicate the basic shape that constantly occur in the design of the stripe. In addition, the researcher discovers that the pattern of the textile is similar to the graphic rules of the program, especially the items of No.22 Nanao Group (shawl for men and women), No.61 Wushe Group (shawl for men and women), and No.70 Truku Group (shawl for men and women). The main structural derivative changes of the rhombus stripe, whose process of making arises from the displacement of the module, build different designs. The manner of the constituent of the composite stripes on the textile is expressed through the transverse chorisis structure, and it exists in the textile of the sub group most commonly. The transversal repetitive structure, then, comes next to the former. In the composite stripe, the repetition of the unit stripes actually has the rule of permutation. The way of its permutation can be divided into two kinds: the reflective and the repetitive. The color composition of the composite stripes can be divided into two colors, three colors, four colors, five colors, six colors, and seven colors. However, the composite stripes of seven colors appear only in Li-lax Group and Paiunx Group. The color used on the composite stripe structure, particularly its color disposition of the stripe division, does not have a specific norm. Most of it is expressed through the color permutation of one light color and then followed with one dark one. As regards to the geographical distribution of the sub group and the textile stripe patterns, we can obtain some corresponding results from the interaction among the sub groups' migration. The unitary or changing rule of the textile stripe pattern in the Atayal costumes highlights the issues of heritage and development. Presumably, we can make a hypothesis that the Atayal people intend to maintain the coherent unifying image of the costumes of their sub groups on the one hand, and they try to avoid the resemblance of the stripe pattern on the other hand. Thus, the cultural signification of such a stripe pattern can be regarded as the inclusion of logical structure and the tribal sentiment.
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