The Evolution Of the Paiwan Traditional Costume：A Case Study of the parilarilao Group in Mudan Township,Pintung County.

• Main Authors: Lin Chunh siang, 林春香
• Other Authors: Ko,Hsueh-Chin
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2016
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/478dwt

碩士 === 國立屏東科技大學 === 時尚設計與管理系所 === 104 === This study aims to explore the evolution of traditional costumes of the Paiwan tribe since the Qing rule period — with a focus on the Parilarilao group who dwell in Mudan Township of Pingtung County. The Mudan Township has been a dwelling place for a diversity of ethnic groups, and the Parilarilao group of Paiwan’s Vuculj classification has made up its largest population. There has been a long history of contacts between the Parilarilao group and other ethnic groups, including other Paiwan groups, Puyuma, Amis, Pingpu, Hoklo Han and Hakka Han. Ways in which interactions occurring among ethnic groups include wars, intermarriage, commercial transactions, trades and colonial rules. Among other things, the evolution of Paiwan traditional costumes is regarded as the best manifestation that highlights historical and cultural changes. The Parilarilao traditional costume—with its unique style and design—stands out among the different groups of the Paiwan, yet has almost dying out over years. Hence, this study aims to explore evolution of the Parilarilao traditional costumes, focusing on changing patterns of clothing style and design. This study contributes to the understanding of the development of Parilarilao traditional costume, and shall be used as a reference for those who works on revitalization of traditional costume. This study adopted different research methods, such as literature review, field survey, and analysis of physical objects. The scope of this study encompasses a period of time from the Qing rule, the Japanese rule, and the Republic of China rule up to present day. This said, this research centers on three consecutive historical periods, i.e. 1683-1895 (17th - 19th centuries), 1895-1945 (19th – 20th centuries), and finally, 1945-2014 (20th – 21st centuries). Based upon exploring the ways in which historical contexts has made impacts on tastes and trends of traditional costumes, this study accounts for patterns of Parilarilao clothing style and design that has evolved over past four centuries. Four significant changes of Parilarilao clothing style and design are found in historical periods since the Dutch rule in Taiwan: 1.Changes in the overall style and design of clothing: During the late Qing rule, as the Parilarilao people learned how to make the Hakka Blue Shirts, the original Parilarilao clothing underwent a transformation from the “rectangular style” to the Chinese Han style. Women’s blouses feature a “large-breasted front design” while men's shirts feature a “double breasted front design.” 2.Changes in colors: in the Qing rule period, blue and black are two colors that were commonly used in cloth design. In the Japanese rule, “red dresses” were introduced into the mainstream fashion along with the double-color theme, such as blue-and-white, red-and-white, as well as fabric patches of floral patterns. In particular, the “red dress” has been popular today and has distinguished the Parilarilao clothing style and design as its symbolic color. 3.Changes in ornamentation and emblazonry: plant, animal and human beings which appeared in geometric and abstract forms were common pattern subjects used in the late Qing rule period were. In the Japanese rule period, the increasing variety of cloth fabrics helped produce new and diverse embroidery pattern. For instance, outfits were ornamented with seemingly hand-drawing pictures. Concentric circles became new decoration elements, symbolizing the Sun. Other decoration elements include abstract forms of sun, moon, rainbows, sea weave, trails, pathways, people and rare characters/symbols (e.g. the swastika卍 pattern). Currently, innovative forms of wild peony and stylized Chinese character “'Dan” (丹) have been artistically created to pay homage to the Township of “Mu-Dan” (牡丹) which literally means “peony”. 4.Changes in techniques of making costumes: During the mid-Qing rule period, due to close and frequent contact with a diversity of ethnic groups immigrated into Taiwan, foreign fabric material, the “plain weave” (also called tabby weave, linen weave) cotton cloth gradually replaced the original traditional woven textiles for making garment. “Embroidery” was introduced in late Qing rule period. In the Japanese colonial period, “embroidered patch” techniques were applied and thus colored ribbon rings were directly “patched” on the garment to explore aesthetic possibilities. Later in the Republic of China period, it was a common practice to use commercially available material as decorative elements. For example, laces, ribbons, and sequins were fixed by sewing to make garment less plain and more polished. Interestingly, in recent years, the fashion's reflexive return to the late Qing Dynasty and the Japanese colonial period and has led to a revival of the old-school fashion techniques, and embroidery and “embroidery patches” are used to create decorative effects. This study contributes to the literature of the Paiwan Traditional Costumes, particularly on the Parilarilao Group in Mudan Township, Pingtung County. Moreover, the analyses of style, design, ornamentation and emblazonry patterns and techniques in this research are resourceful reference for those who are interested in making Parilarilao Group’s traditional costumes.