The Relationship between Sea-Swell Bound Wave Height and Wave Shape

The nonlinear wave shape, expressed by skewness and asymmetry, can be calculated from surface elevation or pressure time series using bispectral analysis. Here, it is shown that the same analysis technique can be used to calculate the bound superharmonic wave height. Using measured near-bed pressure...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Floris de Wit, Marion Tissier, Ad Reniers
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2020-08-01
Series:Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/8/9/643