An evolution of breaking wave on sloping bottoms

博士 === 國立中山大學 === 海洋環境及工程學系研究所 === 101 === This thesis discusses the plunging or spilling wave breaking profiles for the progressive water waves propagating on gentle sloping bottoms. Due to the shoaling effect, the wave height will increase and the wave length will shorten as well as the asymmetry...

Full description

Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Kuei-Sen Yang, 楊貴森
Other Authors: Yang-Yih Chen
Format: Others
Language:zh-TW
Published: 2013
Online Access:http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/86586720942552608707