A nonlinear wave shoaling model for alongshore varying Bathymetry
This thesis proposes an improvement to present near-shore wave prediction models. Using weakly dispersive Boussinesq theory, the shoaling of directionally spread surface gravity waves over a beach with gentle gradients in the cross-shore and alongshore directions is examined. Following Herber...
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Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
2012
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| Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/10945/1450 |